BEAUTIES OF THE BOSPHORUS. 142
Altogether, could the wandering European make the acquaintance of a khanjhi in every eastern city that he visits, without being compelled to make that of the Khan itself, he would enjoy a novel and interesting phase of society, totally distinct from all that he had left behind him in the far west.
PLATE: FORT BEIL-GOROD.
FORT BEIL-GOROD,
"Where glide the Bosphor's lovely waters,
All palace-lined from sea to sea."
N.P. WILLIS.
THE fortress of Beil-Gorod, which forms the subject of the accompanying sketch, is situated immediately opposite to the Jouchi Dajhi, or giant's Grave. It is in the most efficient state of any of the double line of forts bristling the shores of the Bosphorus; and is frequently visited by Sultan Mahmoud, who, during the summer months, occasionally spends whole days at Beil-Gorod, whither he repairs in his gilded barge, attended by a train of Pashas and Beys in their graceful caiques, sweeping along the channel like a flight of swans.
It is a singular and beautiful sight to watch the action of the rowers in the larger boats, or galleys, pulling six or eight pairs of oars, as, clad in a uniform dress composed of white silk shirts with loose open sleeves, cotton drawers of extreme width, and small red caps scarcely covering the crown of their shaven heads, they bend to the long sweep of the pliant oars with an action as symmetrical as though it were produced by machinery, and increase their speed to the utmost stretch, when two rival boats are striving for the lead, - while on every occasional rencontre with each other on the same course, the foremost boat makes it a point of honour not to lose its place; the rowers voluntarily exerting their strength and skill in mimic regattas of perpetual recurrence. The caiques themselves are beautiful; long and narrow, with high prows glittering with gilding, and raised sterns, where the attendants sit behind their employers, who occupy the bottom of the boat, which is always luxuriously carpeted and cushioned, the build of the caique not admitting of transverse seats, even did the habits of the Osmanli favour them: and thus they skim along upon the ripple like wild birds;